Shisha Pangma: The alpine-style first ascent of the south-west face

Awards:   Winner of Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature 1984 Winner of Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature 1984.
Author:   Doug Scott, CBE ,  Alex MacIntyre
Publisher:   Vertebrate Publishing Ltd
Edition:   New edition
ISBN:  

9781911342182


Pages:   250
Publication Date:   01 December 2016
Format:   Paperback
Availability:   In Print   Availability explained
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Shisha Pangma: The alpine-style first ascent of the south-west face


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Awards

  • Winner of Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature 1984
  • Winner of Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature 1984.

Overview

Full Product Details

Author:   Doug Scott, CBE ,  Alex MacIntyre
Publisher:   Vertebrate Publishing Ltd
Imprint:   Vertebrate Publishing Ltd
Edition:   New edition
Dimensions:   Width: 15.60cm , Height: 1.40cm , Length: 23.40cm
Weight:   0.360kg
ISBN:  

9781911342182


ISBN 10:   1911342185
Pages:   250
Publication Date:   01 December 2016
Audience:   General/trade ,  General
Format:   Paperback
Publisher's Status:   Active
Availability:   In Print   Availability explained
This item will be ordered in for you from one of our suppliers. Upon receipt, we will promptly dispatch it out to you. For in store availability, please contact us.

Table of Contents

Publisher’s Note Author’s Note Diary of Events Chapter One Preparations Chapter Two Peking to Nyalam Chapter Three Nyalam to Base Camp Chapter Four Trouble at Base Camp Chapter Five Acclimization Climb Chapter Six Pungpa Ri Chapter Seven The Climb – Lower Half Chapter Eight To the Summit Chapter Nine Return Postscript Appendix One Early Buddhism in Tibet and Milarepa Appendix Two European Advances into Tibet Appendix Three Early Expeditions to Shishapangma Appendix Four Chronology of Climbing Around Shishapangma Appendix Five Expedition Medicine – A Personal View A Note on Mapping Bibliography Ascents on Shishapangma and Associated Peaks Summit Climbs on Shishapangma Fatalities on Shishapangma Central Summit Ascents Other Noteworthy Climbs Photography

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Author Information

Born in 1941, Doug Scott began climbing at the age of 12 at Black Rocks in Derbyshire. He progressed to the cliffs of Ogwen in Snowdonia and became a climbing instructor. Aged 17 he completed his first Alpine season. In the 1960s Doug began new routing on the Derwent Valley limestone, putting up many lines such as Cataclysm and Highlight, and in 1965, aged 24, went on his first expedition to the Tibesti Mountains. Doug Scott made 42 expeditions to the high mountains of Asia. He reached the summits of 40 peaks. Apart from his climb up the South West Face of Everest with Dougal Haston during Chris Bonington's Expedition of 1975, he made all his climbs in lightweight or Alpine style, without the use of artificial oxygen. He reached the highest peaks on all seven continents 'the seven summits'. He was a president of the Alpine Club and was made a CBE in 1994. In 1999 he received the Royal Geographical Society Patron's Gold Medal, and in 2000 made the first ascent of Targo Ri, 6,572 metres, in Tibet. Up until his death in December 2020, he continued to climb, write and lecture, avidly supporting the charity Community Action Nepal. Born in 1954, 'Dirty' Alex MacIntyre was one of the legendary early 1970s Leeds University climbers noted for their big hair, lycra tights and habit of calling on another 'youth'. A popular climber, he was a leading figure Alpine climbing's 'front-point revolution' in the 1970s when a group of British climbers pushed standards dramatically higher. Ascents such as The Shroud on the Grand Jorasses were made in a day and formerly-sieged routes such as the Harlin Direct on the Eiger, were climbed in Alpine-style. MacIntyre was a great supporter of Alpine-style ethics, and took them to the Himalaya, where he made several superb ascents and attempts on major objectives - Changabang, Shishapangma and Makalu. Alex MacIntyre died in 1982. He and Rene Ghilini were retreating from a fine attempt on the South Face of Annapurna where a solitary falling stone struck him square on the head and knocked him down 800 feet. A memorial stone at Annapurna Base Camp reads: 'It is better to live one day as a tiger than a hundred as a sheep.'

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