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OverviewThe classic Kashmir shawl was the exquisite product of consummate skill and artistry applied to one of the world's most delicate fibres. It was an object of desire for Mughal emperors and Sikh maharajas, Iranian nobles, French empresses, Russian and British aristocrats and eventually for the prosperous 19th-century bourgeoisie on both sides of the Atlantic. It has left a permanent imprint on the aesthetic sensibility of the modern world in the so called paisley, derived from a motif developed in the ateliers of Kashmir's shawl designers. This authoritative study introduces the Kashmir shawl as a cultural artefact with a known history spanning four centuries, and a geographical reference from Tibet to the United States. The authors' original research lays many persistent myths to rest. Monisha Ahmed provides the first authentic account, based on years in the field, of the production of the raw material, pashm or cashmere . Janet Rizvi shows how the manufacturing technique of the shawl is rooted in skills indigenous to Kashmir's villages, and invites the reader's sympathy with the weavers, the poorest and most exploited section of Kashmiri society, whose skilled fingers created these dazzling textiles. Separate chapters deal with technique and design, the nature and use of the shawl in Mughal India, and the industry in the 19th century. Shawls were traded to Iran and the Ottoman Empire long before they were discovered by Western trendsetters. Finally, Rizvi documents the recent revival in Kashmir of ancient near-moribund skills. Lavishly illustrated and accessibly written, this book has much to offer textile scholars, and those interested in the history of Kashmir, or of India's material culture or its pre-modern trade. It will also delight anyone who has ever owned or admired a shawl from Kashmir. This updated edition documents a decade's developments in the pashmina and cashmere industries. An important new feature is a chart tabulating the evolution of shawl design according to period. Full Product DetailsAuthor: Janet Rizvi , Monisha AhmedPublisher: The Marg Foundation Imprint: The Marg Foundation Edition: Revised edition Dimensions: Width: 24.10cm , Height: 0.20cm , Length: 30.50cm ISBN: 9789383243211ISBN 10: 938324321 Pages: 336 Publication Date: 15 October 2017 Audience: Professional and scholarly , College/higher education , Professional & Vocational , Postgraduate, Research & Scholarly Format: Hardback Publisher's Status: Active Availability: Temporarily unavailable  The supplier advises that this item is temporarily unavailable. It will be ordered for you and placed on backorder. Once it does come back in stock, we will ship it out to you. Table of ContentsPreface and Acknowledgements Maps Introduction A Felicitous Conjunction Part 1 THE FIBRE Chapter 1 Pashm and Other Animal Fibres Toosh and the Tibetan Antelope Chapter 2 Changra and Changpa: The Goats and Their Herders Monisha Ahmed Chapter 3 From Changthang to Srinagar: The Pashm Trade The Trade in History The Contemporary Trade Monisha Ahmed Part 2 THE TEXTILE Chapter 4 Spinners, Weavers, and Needleworkers Assembled and Recycled Shawls Chapter 5 Design and Designers Part 3 THE HISTORY Chapter 6 Early History: Conjecture and Speculation Chapter 7 The Mughal Period Chapter 8 The Iran Connection: The Termeh Chapter 9 The Business in the 19th Century Shawls in the Punjab Part 4 BY LAND AND SEA Chapter 10 The Kashmir Shawl in India Chapter 11 The Kashmir Shawl in Iran, West Asia, and Russia Chapter 12 Shawls in the West Part 5 CASHMERE AND KASHMIR Chapter 13 Beyond the Shawl: Pashmina Becomes Cashmere The West Discovers the Fibre Cashmere: A Global Product Never out of Fashion: Cashmere Worldwide Monisha Ahmed Chapter 14 Meanwhile, Back in the Valley Appendix I Update 2008-2017 Appendix II Myths, Misconceptions, and Oddities Appendix III Terminology and Glossary Appendix IV Styles, Designs, and DatesReviewsCombines first-rate scholarship with a firm grasp of the practical aspects of shawl manufacture. This addition to the corpus of Kashmir shawl books deserves to become the standard text. Steven Cohen in Hali; About the first edition Author InformationJanet Rizvi, freelance writer and researcher, has a PhD in history from Cambridge. Her book Ladakh, Crossroads of High Asia has been continuously in print for nearly 35 years. She is also author of the highly praised Trans-Himalayan Caravans: Merchant Princes and PeasantTraders in Ladakh. She has contributed articles on the Kashmir shawl to several authoritative reference works: The Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, The Encyclopedia of India, and The Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. She wrote the chapter The Asian Trade in Kashmir Shawls in Textiles from India, The Global Trade (ed. Rosemary Crill). Monisha Ahmed is an independent researcher who has been visiting and writing about Ladakh since 1987. Her book, Living Fabric - Weaving Among the Nomadsof Ladakh Himalaya, received the Textile Society of America's R.L. Shep award in 2003 for best book in the field of ethnic textile studies. Since then she has coedited Ladakh - Culture at the Crossroads, and published several articles on textile arts of Ladakh, including four in The Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Formerly Associate Editor of Marg, she is co-founder and Executive Director of the Ladakh Arts and Media Organisation (LAMO), Leh. Tab Content 6Author Website:Countries AvailableAll regions |
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