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Excerpt from Know Your Surf The waves which one encounters at sea and which form the breakers along beaches are almost always caused by winds. There. Are other types of waves in the ocean such as the waves that are formed by a ship moving in the ocean and the tidal waves which occur occasionally and often cause great damage. Tidal waves, technically known as seismic waves, are caused either directly or indirectly by earthquakes on the ocean bottom, and have nothing at all to do with the tides. Those caused by underwater earthquakes are rare, and the ones formed by ships are of little significance. The types that affect amphibious operations are the waves generated by wind blowing over the ocean surface. At first these waves are very small, like the ones formed on a pond; then they grow larger. In general, the greater the area Over which the wind blows, the longer it blows and the stronger the wind, the heavier is the sea (the higher and longer the waves). About the Publisher Forgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at www.forgottenbooks.com This book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Books uses state-of-the-art technology to digitally reconstruct the work, preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in our edition. We do, however, repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully; any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works.

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