Overview

Bridging theory and practice, this accessible text considers fashion from both cultural studies and fashion studies perspectives, and addresses the growing interaction between the two fields. Kaiser and Green use a wide range of cross-cultural case studies to explore how race, ethnicity, class, gender and other identities intersect and are produced through embodied fashion. Drawing on intersectionality in feminist theory and cultural studies, Fashion and Cultural Studies is essential reading for students and scholars. This revised edition includes updated case studies and two new chapters. The first new chapter explores religion, spirituality, and faith in relation to style, fashion, and dress. The second offers a critique of “beauty” and considers dressed embodiment inclusive of diverse sizes, shapes and dis/abilities. Throughout the text, Kaiser and Green use a range of examples to interrogate the complex entanglements of production, regulation, distribution, consumption, and subject formation within and through fashion.

Full Product Details

Author:   Susan B. Kaiser (University of California, Davis, USA) ,  Denise N. Green (Assistant Professor, Cornell University, USA)
Publisher:   Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Imprint:   Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Edition:   2nd edition
Weight:   0.692kg
ISBN:  

9781350104679

ISBN 10:   1350104671
Pages:   288
Publication Date:   02 December 2021
Audience:   College/higher education ,  Tertiary & Higher Education
Format:   Hardback
Publisher's Status:   Active
Availability:   To order  
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Table of Contents

"List of Illustrations Acknowledgments 1. Fashion Studies and Cultural Studies Articulation Style-fashion-dress The fields of fashion studies and cultural studies Conceptualizing culture and fashion Circuit of style-fashion-dress model Production Consumption Distribution Subject formation Regulation 2. Intersectional, Transnational Fashion Subjects Assumption 1: Structure-agency dynamics include processes of persuasion, consent, and resistance. Assumption 2: Subject formation through style-fashion-dress is a process of navigating intersectionalities. Assumption 3: Structures of feeling – expressed through subject formation and the fashion process alike – articulate between everyday life and culture through the circuit of style-fashion-dress Ambiguity Cultural Ambivalence Cultural Anxiety Assumption 4: The field of critical fashion studies needs to move from identity nots to identity (k)nots Assumption 5: Fashion is transnational – not merely western or “Euromodern"" Assumption 6: The process of negotiating ambiguity is not a level playing field, and it is a material process – especially in a transnational context 3. Fashioning the National Subject Nation ? essence Nation as different than: Representing the other Folk costume, national dress and fashion Working the hyphen: Nation-state and style-fashion-dress French Revolution Chinese Cultural Revolution (and beyond) From European expansion to globalization Decolonizing fashion: Beyond the metaphor Globalization Intersectionalities and entanglements 4. Racial Rearticulations and Ethnicities Race and ethnicity: Sliding signifiers Racial and ethnic rearticulations Color Hair Ethnic re-articulations: Belongings-in-Difference Sliding into appropriation, sliding into religion 5. Religion, Fashion, and Spirituality Subject formation Spirituality, subjectivity, and materiality Modesty Piety, orthodoxy, religiosity Regulation State alignment with religion Freedom from religion Freedom of religion (religious freedom) Production, distribution, and consumption The Jewish diaspora and the textile, clothing, and retail industries The globalization of Muslim fashion 6. Class Matters, Fashion Matters Conceptualizing class Caste systems Sumptuary laws, materials, and the “natural” order Class, intersectionalities, and industrial capitalism From textile to apparel production: At home, in the factory, and in protest Class and fast fashion Metaphors of class structure and change: The flows of fashion Status claims and status demurrals 7. Gendering Fashion, Fashioning Gender: Beyond Binaries Soft assemblages Marking, unmarking, and remarking gender Sex, gender, and style-fashion-dress: Feminist deconstructions Theorizing the body and style-fashion-dress Transgender studies through bodies and style-fashion-dress Menswear out of the academic closet Multiple masculinities Zoot suit La SAPE in Congo US National Survey of Male Intersectionalities 8. Sexual Subjectivities and Style-Fashion-Dress Sexual subjectivities Binary “beginnings” and reversals Homophobic discourses On the protracted coming out of heterosexuality 1960s and 1970s: Social movements and sexual fashions 1980s and beyond: Queering fashion Gazing subjects and positionalities Sexuality through intersectionalities 9. Dressed Embodiment From phenomenology to dressed embodiment Abstracting the body and representing embodiment Anthropometrics and sizing Stigmatizing and celebrating fat bodies Sizeism and the fashion industry Flaunting fat Dis/abled bodies Athletics and bodily exceptionalism Addressing ableism Disabling environments and style-fashion-dress Fashioning disability Concealment Diversion and reframing Modifying and making Compensation Social uniqueness Social inclusion Embodied subjectivities 10. Bodies in Motion Through Time and Space Time and space (and place) Age/generation and place Fashion’s way with time in space: Spatiotemporalities Industrial time Anti/nonlinear time and space Nostalgia Space-Time compression and “speed space” Uchronic temporality and utopian spaces Closing/opening thoughts Bibliography Index"

Reviews

The second edition of Fashion and Cultural Studies is the resource that fashion scholars, students, activists and designers need at this time of deep transformation in the field of fashion. It brings together critical theories about power and marginalization and illuminates how these frameworks advance understandings of fashion with nuance and accessibility. This book will inspire readers to question, expand and reimagine how they think about fashion in society, and it offers them the interdisciplinary worldviews to advance social justice through their own work. -- Ben Barry, Dean of Fashion, Parsons School of Design, USA Building upon the critical foundation that Susan Kaiser provided for us in 2012, Denise Green and Kaiser work collaboratively to deepen our understanding of the phenomenon of fashion, drawing upon new ways of considering Style-Fashion-Dress. Fashion and Cultural Studies is a recommended text for educators to assign in the classroom, as it offers the most robust and cogent framework for examining why we wear what we wear, focusing on its sociopolitical implications in today’s climate. -- Kimberly M. Jenkins, Educator and Founder, The Fashion and Race Database, USA This exciting book demonstrates how Fashion Theory deepens the theoretical and militant tradition of cultural studies in our time, in relation particularly to issues such as bodies, multiple identities, social inclusion, identity/alterity, spirituality. Even more than in the previous edition, the book shows how fashion can be a true political, ethical and aesthetic passion. -- Patrizia Calefato, Università degli studi di Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Fashion and Cultural Studies is an innovative, engaging, and refreshing text where Susan Kaiser and Denise Green examine the numerous entanglements of identity, fashion, style, dress, (to use their words) “both/and” the body. In the text and imagery, they center and prioritize examples from historically marginalized communities and they also engage in important critical self-reflection as white, middle-class US American women; other fashion studies scholars need to follow their example. This much-needed book is required reading for those interested in, and perhaps more importantly those not interested in, fashioning identities and justice. -- Kelly Reddy-Best, Iowa State University, USA

The second edition of Fashion and Cultural Studies is the resource that fashion scholars, students, activists and designers need at this time of deep transformation in the field of fashion. It brings together critical theories about power and marginalization and illuminates how these frameworks advance understandings of fashion with nuance and accessibility. This book will inspire readers to question, expand and reimagine how they think about fashion in society, and it offers them the interdisciplinary worldviews to advance social justice through their own work. -- Ben Barry, Dean of Fashion, Parsons School of Design, USA Building upon the critical foundation that Susan Kaiser provided for us in 2012, Denise Green and Kaiser work collaboratively to deepen our understanding of the phenomenon of fashion, drawing upon new ways of considering Style-Fashion-Dress. Fashion and Cultural Studies is a recommended text for educators to assign in the classroom, as it offers the most robust and cogent framework for examining why we wear what we wear, focusing on its sociopolitical implications in today's climate. -- Kimberly M. Jenkins, Educator and Founder, The Fashion and Race Database, USA This exciting book demonstrates how Fashion Theory deepens the theoretical and militant tradition of cultural studies in our time, in relation particularly to issues such as bodies, multiple identities, social inclusion, identity/alterity, spirituality. Even more than in the previous edition, the book shows how fashion can be a true political, ethical and aesthetic passion. -- Patrizia Calefato, Universita degli studi di Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Fashion and Cultural Studies is an innovative, engaging, and refreshing text where Susan Kaiser and Denise Green examine the numerous entanglements of identity, fashion, style, dress, (to use their words) both/and the body. In the text and imagery, they center and prioritize examples from historically marginalized communities and they also engage in important critical self-reflection as white, middle-class US American women; other fashion studies scholars need to follow their example. This much-needed book is required reading for those interested in, and perhaps more importantly those not interested in, fashioning identities and justice. -- Kelly Reddy-Best, Iowa State University, USA

Author Information

Susan B. Kaiser is a Professor at the University of California, Davis, in the Departments of Gender, Sexuality, and Women’s Studies; and Design. She is the author of The Social Psychology of Clothing (Fairchild 1997), and more than 100 journal articles and book chapters. She is also the editor of the journal Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty. Denise N. Green is an Associate Professor at Cornell University where she also directs the Cornell Fashion + Textile Collection. She is on the editorial boards of the Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Fashion Studies, Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, and was the Vice President of Publications for the Costume Society of America, 2017–2021.

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