Overview

For centuries, the creation of Jacquard cloth required the collaborative efforts of teams of designers and technicians working on vastly complex equipment. In the past three decades, developments in loom technology and CAD systems have made it possible for a single individual to design and produce this most challenging class of textiles. Digital Jacquard Design presents a comprehensive introduction to the creation of weave patterning in the era of digitally piloted looms. It offers both aesthetic and technical training for students of figured weaving, covering the Jacquard medium in fantastic breadth and depth. The book is an essential guide for all who create figured textiles with modern materials and tools, and provides the reader with a 'digital' key to access and employ the great textile traditions of the past. Digital Jacquard Design examines the design process from end to end, progressing from visual analysis, sample analysis and weave-drafting methods, to figuring techniques and the selection and building of weaves. It provides a guide to converting traditional drafts to digital polychrome format, a design terminology and a weave glossary. The book concludes with a rich set of case studies to demonstrate ingenious and effective weave and design solutions.

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9781350108493

Table of Contents

Reviews

[T]his book is an excellent resource for students of jacquard, but more than that, it is a compilation of inspiration for any artist. With the resurgence of interest in making cloth, this book will surely guide many non-weavers through this fascinating terrain … It is a book you will want to have out, handy, just to browse through for inspiration when you are feeling dull. -- Bhakti Ziek * Surface Design Association * An excellent resource for visual learners, this book provides a wealth of technical analysis and inspiring documentation of Jacquard weaving. Numerous color photographs, including microscopic details, color diagrams, notations and concise text clearly illustrate how this distinctive vocabulary is considered and applied in the creation of figured cloth. * Janice Lessman-Moss, Professor and Head of Textile Art, Kent State University, USA * This book is a very useful source of information for any weaver who wants to explore and extend their practice into the realm of digital Jacquard design. Julie Holyoke, through her extensive experience and knowledge of this specialised discipline, brings together a diverse range of information from the spheres of both technology and design methodology. Through well-illustrated examples she explains clearly all the important elements that need to be considered for the creation of Jacquard wovens with today’s tools. * Ismini Samanidou, independent textile designer and artist * At long last a book which will develop students' knowledge of Jacquard. -- Nicola Redmore, Huddersfield University, UK It is gorgeous in every way. I love the contrast between the historic textiles and the contemporary ones. Love the case studies of works by a wide range of contemporary artists. Love the balance of design advice and solid technical information. As a professor of weave technology, it is difficult to find relevant texts that are less than 10 years old for my courses. I will recommend this for courses in weave design or technology now. It is also an excellent reference for anyone involved in the study or conservation of historical textiles and fashion. * Patrice George, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA * Beautifully presented book with exciting contemporary work as well as relevant historical imagery: practical and useful to weave students and designers. -- Lesley Mitchison, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK I appreciated the book on two levels: the technical presentation of detailed warp sections; and the drafts that accompany images of cloth to provide a very comprehensive explanation of the cloth’s construction. I also appreciated the case studies giving real life examples of how talented weavers have utilised this technology, providing a human insight into the design approach and potential of the medium … [T]his is a beautiful book, full of wonderful images of textiles both contemporary and historical; surely an inspiration for all. -- Kay Faulkner * Textile Fibre Forum * Primarily a technical text, this volume by educator/practitioner Holyoke explores both the aesthetic and the functional in designing woven jacquard fabrics. Visually strong support images are pulled from both contemporary and historic textiles; with only a few exceptions these are shown at real size or in detail, providing clarity on weave structure and yarn color combinations. This volume would make a strong textbook for advanced weaving courses. It is also an important reference text for weaving studios. Summing Up: Essential. Upper-level undergraduates through professionals/practitioners. -- L. L. Kriner, Berea College * CHOICE *

[T]his book is an excellent resource for students of jacquard, but more than that, it is a compilation of inspiration for any artist. With the resurgence of interest in making cloth, this book will surely guide many non-weavers through this fascinating terrain ... It is a book you will want to have out, handy, just to browse through for inspiration when you are feeling dull. -- Bhakti Ziek * Surface Design Association * An excellent resource for visual learners, this book provides a wealth of technical analysis and inspiring documentation of Jacquard weaving. Numerous color photographs, including microscopic details, color diagrams, notations and concise text clearly illustrate how this distinctive vocabulary is considered and applied in the creation of figured cloth. * Janice Lessman-Moss, Professor and Head of Textile Art, Kent State University, USA * This book is a very useful source of information for any weaver who wants to explore and extend their practice into the realm of digital Jacquard design. Julie Holyoke, through her extensive experience and knowledge of this specialised discipline, brings together a diverse range of information from the spheres of both technology and design methodology. Through well-illustrated examples she explains clearly all the important elements that need to be considered for the creation of Jacquard wovens with today's tools. * Ismini Samanidou, independent textile designer and artist * At long last a book which will develop students' knowledge of Jacquard. -- Nicola Redmore, Huddersfield University, UK It is gorgeous in every way. I love the contrast between the historic textiles and the contemporary ones. Love the case studies of works by a wide range of contemporary artists. Love the balance of design advice and solid technical information. As a professor of weave technology, it is difficult to find relevant texts that are less than 10 years old for my courses. I will recommend this for courses in weave design or technology now. It is also an excellent reference for anyone involved in the study or conservation of historical textiles and fashion. * Patrice George, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA * Beautifully presented book with exciting contemporary work as well as relevant historical imagery: practical and useful to weave students and designers. -- Lesley Mitchison, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK I appreciated the book on two levels: the technical presentation of detailed warp sections; and the drafts that accompany images of cloth to provide a very comprehensive explanation of the cloth's construction. I also appreciated the case studies giving real life examples of how talented weavers have utilised this technology, providing a human insight into the design approach and potential of the medium ... [T]his is a beautiful book, full of wonderful images of textiles both contemporary and historical; surely an inspiration for all. -- Kay Faulkner * Textile Fibre Forum * Primarily a technical text, this volume by educator/practitioner Holyoke explores both the aesthetic and the functional in designing woven jacquard fabrics. Visually strong support images are pulled from both contemporary and historic textiles; with only a few exceptions these are shown at real size or in detail, providing clarity on weave structure and yarn color combinations. This volume would make a strong textbook for advanced weaving courses. It is also an important reference text for weaving studios. Summing Up: Essential. Upper-level undergraduates through professionals/practitioners. -- L. L. Kriner, Berea College * CHOICE *

Author Information

Julie Holyoke is affiliated with the Lisio Foundation, Florence, Italy. A pioneer in the use of digital technologies for wovens, she has worked for three decades as an educator at universities and mills in Italy and beyond, while designing interiors and fashion textiles for both industrial and handwoven productions.

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