Overview

Color speaks a powerful cultural language, conveying political, sexual, and economic messages that, throughout history, have revealed how we relate to ourselves and our world. This ground-breaking compilation is the first to investigate how color in fashionable and ceremonial dress has played a significant social role, indicating acceptance and exclusion, convention and subversion. From the use of white in pioneering feminism to the penchant for black in post-war France, and from mystical scarlet broadcloth to the horrors of arsenic-laden green fashion, this publication demonstrates that color in dress is never straightforward. Divided into four parts – solidarity, power, innovation, and desire – each section highlights the often violent, emotional histories of color in dress across geographical, temporal and cultural boundaries. Underlying today’s relaxed attitude to color lies a chromatic complexity that speaks of wars, migrations and economics. Bringing together cutting-edge chapters from leading scholars, it is essential reading for students of fashion, textiles, design, cultural studies and art history.

Full Product Details

Author:   Professor Jonathan Faiers (Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, UK) ,  Mary Westerman Bulgarella (independent textiles and historic dress consultant, USA and Italy)
Publisher:   Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Imprint:   Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Weight:   0.616kg
ISBN:  

9781350077409

ISBN 10:   1350077402
Pages:   256
Publication Date:   12 July 2018
Audience:   College/higher education ,  Undergraduate ,  Postgraduate, Research & Scholarly
Format:   Paperback
Publisher's Status:   Active
Availability:   To order  
Stock availability from the supplier is unknown. We will order it for you and ship this item to you once it is received by us.

Table of Contents

"Introduction Jonathan Faiers (Winchester School of Art, UK) and Mary Westerman Bulgarella (Independent Consultant, Italy) Part 1: Color and Solidarity 1. Color as Theme in the Ebony Fashion Fair Joy Bivins (Chicago History Museum, USA) 2. Purity and Parity: The White Dress of the Suffrage Movement in Early Twentieth-Century Britain Kimberly Wahl (Ryerson University, Canada) 3. Birds of the Same “Color” Flock Together: Color as Expression of Identity and Solidarity in Aso-Ebi Cloth of the Yoruba Margaret Olugbemisola Areo (Ladoke Akintola University, Nigeria) and Adebowale Biodun Areo (National Museum, Nigeria) 4. Contradictory Colors: Tricolor in Vichy France's Fashion Culture Emmanuelle Dirix (Manchester Metropolitan University, UK and Antwerp Fashion Academy, Beligum) Part 2: Color and Power 5. Dress and Color at the Thai Court Piyanan Petcharaburanin and Alisa Saisavetvaree (Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, Thailand) 6. ‘Gold and Silver by Night’: Queen Alexandra: A Life in Color Kate Strasdin (Falmouth University, UK) 7. Lord Boston’s Court Uniform: A Story of Color, Politics and the Psychology of Belonging Deirdre Murphy (Historic Royal Palaces, UK) 8. Yellow is the New Red, or Clothing the Recession and How the Shade of Shame Became Chic Jonathan Faiers (Winchester School of Art, UK) Part 3: Color and Innovation 9. Color Before Technicolor: Colorized Fashion Films of the Silent Era Michelle Finamore (Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, USA) 10. Color as Concept: From International Klein Blue to Viktor & Rolf's ""Bluescreen"" Michal Lynn Shumate (School of the Art Institute of Chicago, USA) 11. Tainted Love: Oscar Wilde's Toxic Green Carnation, Queerness and Chromophobia Alison Matthews David (Ryerson University, Canada) 12. Starlit Skies Blue versus Durindone Blue Anna Buruma (Liberty and Central Saint Martins, UK) Part 4: Color and Desire 13.Rough Wolves in the Sheepcote: The Meanings of Fashionable Color 1909-1914 Claire Rose (Royal School of Needlework, UK) 14. ‘Le noir étant la dominante de notre vêture …’: The Many Meanings of Black in Post-War Paris Beatrice Behlen (Museum of London, UK) 15. British Scarlet Broadcloth: The Perfect Red in Eastern Africa, c.1820 - 1885 Sarah Fee (Royal Ontario Museum, Canada) 16. Lives Lived: Archaeology of Faded Indigo Kate Irvin (Rhode Island School of Design, USA) Notes Bibliography Index"

Reviews

Sixteen engrossing essays explore the many shades of meaning in the colors adopted by royals and revolutionaries, soldiers and suffragettes, from Hollywood to Nigeria and from the sixteenth century to the present. -- Kimberley Chrisman-Campbell, Art Historian This book provides a comprehensive exploration of color's complex and fascinating relationship with fashion. Foregrounding how consumption and power structures have shaped the way color is worn, perceived and desired in a number of global contexts and historical periods, it is an essential book on how culture and society influence color. -- Sarah Street, University of Bristol

Sixteen engrossing essays explore the many shades of meaning in the colors adopted by royals and revolutionaries, soldiers and suffragettes, from Hollywood to Nigeria and from the sixteenth century to the present. -- Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell * Art Historian * A series of fascinating essays by an internationally-spread group of authors ... it can be dipped into at will. * Journal for Weavers, Spinners and Dyers * This book provides a comprehensive exploration of color’s complex and fascinating relationship with fashion. Foregrounding how consumption and power structures have shaped the way color is worn, perceived and desired in a number of global contexts and historical periods, it is an essential book on how culture and society influence color. -- Sarah Street * University of Bristol * Why did the British suffragettes wear white? What color did Thailand’s Queen Sirikit sport on Fridays? And why were dyed green carnations in the early 1800s so deadly? ... Readers of fashion, costume, and design, as well as anthropology, history, and art history will enjoy this accessible, fun title. -- Library

Author Information

Jonathan Faiers is Professor of Fashion Thinking at Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, UK, publishes internationally on fashion and textiles, and is editor of the journal Luxury: History, Culture, Consumption. Mary Westerman Bulgarella is a consultant in the conservation, research, and display of historic textiles and dress, based in Florence, Italy and in Chicago, Illinois. She has been the Advisory Committee Coordinator of Costume Colloquium since its conception.

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