Clothing the Past: Surviving Garments from Early Medieval to Early Modern Western Europe

Author:   Elizabeth Coatsworth ,  Gale Owen-Crocker
Publisher:   Brill
ISBN:  

9789004288706


Pages:   454
Publication Date:   13 March 2018
Format:   Hardback
Availability:   In stock   Availability explained
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Clothing the Past: Surviving Garments from Early Medieval to Early Modern Western Europe


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Author:   Elizabeth Coatsworth ,  Gale Owen-Crocker
Publisher:   Brill
Imprint:   Brill
Weight:   1.949kg
ISBN:  

9789004288706


ISBN 10:   9004288708
Pages:   454
Publication Date:   13 March 2018
Audience:   Professional and scholarly ,  Professional & Vocational
Format:   Hardback
Publisher's Status:   Active
Availability:   In stock   Availability explained
We have confirmation that this item is in stock with the supplier. It will be ordered in for you and dispatched immediately.

Table of Contents

Preface List of Illustrations The Authors Note on Measurements General Introduction Origins of the Study Scope of the Study Circumstance of Survival of Complete (or Almost Complete) Garments Life after Life/Afterlife Sets and Collections of Garments Weaves and Other Constructional Techniques; Non-Textile Materials; Embroidered Decoration Inscriptions Iconography Every-day Wear Style and Fashion A Final Word 1 Headgear: Hat, Cap, Hood, Mitre Introduction 1.1 Orkney Hood 1.2 Bocksten Hood 1.3 York Silk Hood or Cap 1.4 Cap of St Birgitta 1.5 Headdress from Dokkum-Berg Sion 1.6 Little Sampford Hat 1.7 Birette of Prince Fernando de la Cerda 1.8 Composite Mitre from Salzburg 1.9 Mitre with the Martyrdoms of St Thomas Becket and St Stephen 1.10 Jewelled Mitre of William of Wykeham 2 Outer Garments: Copes, Cloaks and Mantles Introduction 2.1 'Star Mantle' of Emperor Henry II 2.2 'Coronation Mantle' of King Stephen of Hungary 2.3 Mantle of King Roger II of Sicily 2.4 Mantle of Philip of Swabia 2.5 Mantle of Emperor Otto IV 2.6 Mantle of Prince Fernando de la Cerda 2.7 Blue Mantle of St Kunigunde 2.8 Syon Cope 2.9 Hildesheim Cope 2.10 Butler-Bowdon Cope 3 The Priestly Outer Garment: Chasuble Introduction 3.1 Bell Chasuble Attributed to St Willigilis 3.2 Bressanone (Brixen) Chasuble 3.3 Castel Sant'Elia Chasuble as Reliquary 3.4 Clare Chasuble 3.5 Melk Chasuble 3.6 Striped Egyptian Silk Chasuble 3.7 Erpingham Chasuble 3.8 Italian Voided Velvet Chasuble 3.9 Blue Wool Chasuble with Applied Embroidered Cross 3.10 Fiddleback Chasuble from Munich 4 Body Garments of Wool and Linen: Tunic, Shirt, Alb Introduction 4.1 Bocksten Tunic 4.2 Greenland Gown with Short Sleeves 4.3 Greenland Gown with Buttoned Sleeves 4.4 Cowl of St Francis of Assisi 4.5 Shirt of St Louis 4.6 Alb Attributed to St Thomas Becket 4.7 Alb Attributed to St Bernulph of Utrecht 4.8 Embroidered Alb with Embroidered Apparels in Cologne 4.9 Alb with Embroidered Apparels in Munich 4.10 Lucera Alb with Embroidered Apparels 5 Rich Body Garments: Tunic, Gown, Overgown, Dalmatic and Tunicle Introduction 5.1 Saya Encordata of Eleanor of Castile, Queen of Aragon 5.2 Pellote of Eleanor of Castile, Queen of Aragon 5.3 Striped Pellote of Don Fernando 5.4 Saya Encordata of Prince Fernando de La Cerda 5.5 'Golden Gown' of Queen Margaret 5.6 Dalmatic of St Ulrich 5.7 Mi-parti Dalmatic 5.8 Goess Dalmatic 5.9 Tunicle of Pere d'Urg 5.10 'Eagle Dalmatic' of the Holy Roman Empire 6 Upper Body and Front Fastening Garments: Undergarment, Padded Garment, Coat-Like Garment Introduction 6.1 Bodice or Brassiere from Lengberg Castle, Nikolsdorf 6.2 Auqueton of the Blessed Isabelle of France 6.3 Rationale from Regensberg 6.4 Greenland Buttoned and Collared Gown 6.5 Rothwell Jack 6.6 Jupon or Coat-Armour of the Black Prince 6.7 Pourpoint of Charles of Blois 6.8 Pourpoint of Charles VI of France 6.9 Guibbone of Don Garcia de'Medici 6.10 Guibbone of Duke Cosimo I de'Medici 7 Loin and Leg Coverings: Underpants, Hose, Sock, Buskin Introduction 7.1 Underpants from Lengberg Castle, Nikolsdorf 7.2 Bocksten Hose 7.3 Greenland Stocking 7.4 Garter from London 7.5 Sock from York 7.6 Sock from Uppsala 7.7 Buskins Attributed to St Germanus 7.8 Buskins of Pope Clement II 7.9 Buskins Attributed to St Dizier (Desiderius) 7.10 Buskins of Archbishop Hubert Walter 8 Minor Vestments: Stole, Maniple, Amice, Pallium, Ecclesiastical Girdle, Humeral Veil Introduction 8.1 Belt of Ailbecunda 8.2 Belt of Witgar 8.3 Pallium with Embroidered Chi-Rho Emblem Associated with St Caesarius of Arles and Later Silk Casing 8.4 Pallium and Casing 'aux Lievres' of Saint Caesarius of Arles 8.5 Matching Stole and Maniple from the Tomb of St Cuthbert 8.6 Maniple of St Ulrich 8.7 Heraldic Stole 8.8 Humeral Veil (?) from Maaseik, known as the Velamen of St Harlindis 8.9 Amice from Munich 8.10 Amice from Cologne 9 Footwear: Shoe, Boot, Slipper, Patten Introduction 9.1 Pair of Shoes from Oseberg 9.2 Shoe Mounted on a Bone Skate, from York 9.3 London Shoe with Drawstring and Long Toe 9.4 Embroidered Shoe from Bryggen, Bergen 9.5 London Poulaine 9.6 London Patten 9.7 Boots from a Bog Burial Near Peiting 9.8 Shoes of St Germanus 9.9 Shoe Attributed to St Dizier (Desiderius) 9.10 Shoes of Archbishop Hubert Walter 10 Accessories: Mitten, Glove, Secular Belt, Possible Headdress Decoration or Cloak Ties Introduction 10.1 Icelandic Naalbinding Mitten 10.2 Linked Woven Mittens from Iceland 10.3 Episcopal Gloves (St Sabinus Gloves) from Canosa 10.4 Bressanone (Brixen) Episcopal Gloves 10.5 Episcopal Gloves of William Warham 10.6 Reliquary Gloves of Blessed Christina von Stommeln 10.7 Heraldic Girdle of Fernando de la Cerda 10.8 Girdle of Philip of Swabia 10.9 Enamelled Girdle Associated with William of Wykeham 10.10 Possible Headband Decoration or Cloak Tie from the Tomb of St Cuthbert Glossary Index

Reviews

...The chapters following the introduction are a feast to the eye. [...] The strength of the book lies in its wide presentation of clothing from the Middle Ages. Many surviving garments are from a rich or ecclesiastical context, and it is these rich objects that generally receive most attention in research of medieval dress. Coatsworth and Owen-Crocker have attempted to level the scales by including a considerable amount of garments from the archaeological record [...] Clothing the Past: Surviving Garments from Early Medieval to Early Modern Western Europe is a book fit for a range of audiences. Its attractive illustrated layout makes the topic accessible for a wide public, but it is also a must-have for those studying clothing in this period. - Chrystel Brandenburg, in: Costume, 53.1 (2019): 126-27 Scholarly studies of textiles have multiplied over the last few decades. The interdisciplinary Clothing the Past: Surviving Garments from Early Medieval to Early Modern Western Europe is a welcome addition to this growing corpus . [...] This beautifully illustrated volume presents 100 surviving garments dating from c. 450 to c. 1575. Because the authors organized the attire by type, it provides an opportunity to compare like pieces across the centuries . [...] Medievalists as well as textile scholars and enthusiasts will profit greatly from reading this volume in its entirety, for it provides a valuable means of showing both the interconnectedness of the medieval world and its rich variety. It can serve as a useful introduction and provide new information even for experts. In sum, Clothing the Past should appeal to a wide range of readers and will hopefully inspire further study of medieval textiles . Valerie L. Garver, in The Medieval Review, September 2020.


...The chapters following the introduction are a feast to the eye. [...] The strength of the book lies in its wide presentation of clothing from the Middle Ages. Many surviving garments are from a rich or ecclesiastical context, and it is these rich objects that generally receive most attention in research of medieval dress. Coatsworth and Owen-Crocker have attempted to level the scales by including a considerable amount of garments from the archaeological record [...] Clothing the Past: Surviving Garments from Early Medieval to Early Modern Western Europe is a book fit for a range of audiences. Its attractive illustrated layout makes the topic accessible for a wide public, but it is also a must-have for those studying clothing in this period. Chrystel Brandenburg in Costume, 53.1 (2019): 126-27


Author Information

Elizabeth Coatsworth BA, MSc, Ph.D. was Senior Lecturer and, until recently, Honorary Research Fellow in the Manchester Institute for Research and Innovation in Art and Design (MIRIAD), Manchester Metropolitan University. Her books include The Durham Gospels (with Christopher D. Verey, and T. Julian Brown, 1980); The Art of the Anglo-Saxon Goldsmith (with Michael Pinder, 2002); and Corpus of Anglo-Saxon Stone Sculpture. VIII. Western Yorkshire (2008). Gale R. Owen-Crocker BA, Ph.D., FSA is Professor Emerita, The University of Manchester, where she was previously Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture and Director of the Manchester Centre for Anglo-Saxon Studies. Her books include Dress in Anglo-Saxon England (1986, 2004); The Four Funerals in Beowulf (2000); and The Bayeux Tapestry: Collected Papers (2012). She is co-founder and co-editor of the annual journal Medieval Clothing and Textiles.

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