Overview

An open access book, Antigender Fashion is a rich examination of gender fluidity in contemporary fashion design, Judith Beyer develops an emerging new theoretical framework for understanding how fashion can blur and challenge gender boundaries. How is gender fluidity in contemporary fashion different from 20th century androgyny or millennial unisex styles? Like antifashion, which opposes and challenges fashion, Beyer argues that antigender fashion seeks to dismantle and confront binary gender signifiers. After tracing the history of gender-blurring fashion from Marlene Dietrich’s androgynous tailoring to Alessandro Michele’s floral Gucci suits, case studies of four high-profile fashion brands reveal the diverse approaches to gender-fluidity in contemporary fashion. Investigating each case study through multiple theoretical perspectives – from gender studies to gothic horror, cyborg theory to Afrofuturism – Beyer situates antigender fashion in a rich theoretical landscape and illuminates exciting new critical directions for students and researchers. Can antigender fashion influence the construction of contemporary masculinities and femininities – and can it be a catalyst for change? The ebook editions of this book are available open access under a CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 licence on bloomsburycollections.com. Open access was funded by the Bloomsbury Open Collections Library Collective.

Full Product Details

Author:   Judith Beyer (Formerly Massey University, New Zealand) ,  Joanne B Eicher (The University of Minnesota USA)
Publisher:   Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Imprint:   Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Dimensions:   Width: 15.40cm , Height: 2.00cm , Length: 23.20cm
Weight:   0.546kg
ISBN:  

9781350466043

ISBN 10:   1350466042
Pages:   256
Publication Date:   15 May 2025
Audience:   Professional and scholarly ,  Professional & Vocational
Format:   Paperback
Publisher's Status:   Active
Availability:   Available To Order  
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Table of Contents

List of Figures Acknowledgements Introduction Methodology Case Study Approach Materials and Data Gathering Internet-Mediated Research Outline 1 Troubling Gender: On the Proliferation of Gender and the Performativity of Fashion Sex, Gender, and Performativity Trans* and the Proliferation of Gender The Performativity of Fashion: Fashion’s System of Signification in Post-Postmodernity 2 Tracing Fluidity: Understanding Moments of Gender-Blurring Fashion Moment I: Bohemians in the Nineteenth Century Moment II: Female Masculinities in the 1920s Moment III: Youth and Countercultures of the 1960s and 1970s Moment IV: Ck One, Unisex, and Millennial Masculinities 3 Antigender Fashion; or, Why Can’t Girls Have Dicks and Boys Have Boobs? Anti-Fashion and Subculture: Anti-Fashion as ‘Confrontational’ Dress Anti-Fashion and Queerness: Anti-Fashion as Oppositional Dress Anti-Fashion and Feminism: Anti-Fashion as Protest Philosophical Perspectives on Anti-Fashion: A Dialectical Approach From Anti-Fashion to Antigender Fashion 4 JW Anderson: The Architecture of Antigender Fashion Millennial Masculinity and JW Anderson’s Beginnings Moment I: (Re-)Building the Architecture of Man and Woman Moment II: Out of Proportion or Fashioning the Grotesque Antigendered Body Moment III: The Camp, the Carnival, the Surreal of Antigender Fashion 5 Alessandro Michele and Gucci: The Bricolage of Antigender Fashion Gender Fluidity Goes Mainstream: The Making and Breaking of Gucci Moment I: Gucci’s New Man – Antigender Fashion and the Floral Suit Moment II: Time Leaps, Détournement, and Memory Moment III: The Bricolage, the Cyborg, and the Post-Human of Antigender 6 Art School: Dressing the Queer and Antigendered Body Designing with and within London’s Queer/Trans* Community Moment I: Performing Fashion, Performing Queerness – Staging Antigender Fashion Moment II: Antigender Bodies In-Between – Dressing Intersectionalities or the Trans*, Ageing, Fat, and Disabled Body Moment III: On Gothic Queer Cultures – the Uncanny Horror in Art School’s Antigender Fashion 7 No Sesso: Styling the Black, Antigendered, and Afrofuturist Body On Disidentification and Designing for an Inclusive Future Moment I: Antigender Streetwear Moment II: Reusing, Recycling, and Remembering Moment III: Antigender and Afrofuturism Conclusion References Index

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Author Information

Judith Beyer is a fashion scholar and educator. Her research focuses on the intersections of fashion, culture, and identity, particularly gender fluidity and masculinities in contemporary fashion design. She has published in several journals, including Fashion, Style and Popular Culture, ZoneModa and the Journal of Bodies, Sexualities, and Masculinities.

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